VW Intake blockage

One of my projects last week. Owner of 03 VW TDI complained of  lack of performance, and check engine light on. The egr, and egr cooler had previously been cleaned, and the MAF sensor replaced. The customer mentioned the intake had also been cleaned out in attempt to fix the issue. The engine ran better with MAF sensor unplugged(it reverts to default setting in computer I believe), but wouldn't rev or get up to speed anywhere close to how it should've. We decided to check the intake runners, and intake ports in the head, to check for coking blockage.

Intake manifold behind the egr. It looks wet, but is dry.

Ready for intake removal

Soaked intake with solvent during lunch.

This coking was mostly in the elbow between the intake plenum and the runner the the egr bolts to. It was missed by whomever had cleaned the intake previously. There was almost 3/4 of a cup of material blocking air flow. 

After re-assembly the car was test driven, and performed as it should, no hesitation to reving, and drove well.

I learned to be thorough when cleaning parts, as the blockage in the elbow of the intake could easily be missed(as it was by previous technician who performed the procedure), and the problem would not be fixed.

  Week 7: 40hrs

Total: 280hrs

Gen Set Self Oiling

A look at one of the projects I worked on last week. I started removing the self oiling system from a gen set that no longer needs it. We're going to be installing the system on another gen set that is much harder to access frequently. 

Here is the float housing and sight glass for setting up the system. The oil level needs to be a pre determined level in the sight glass, which is the same level in the oil pan(or reservoir if not using the factory oil pan). When the level goes below the set low level, the switch(in next picture) opens a valve and more oil enters the pan. The oiling system also gradually changes oil over the recommended oil change interval.

The small light gray box in the lower left of picture with the hoses entering and exiting it is the switch for the oiling system.

The mounting bracket for the float housing.

The power for the switch is the orange lead coming from spot 7 on the green terminal block.

I learned how an oiling system works, at least how this one works, and how to disassemble it. I hope this will make installing the system on another gen set less confusing.

5th week total: 40hrs

total: 200 hrs

Making tracks.. continued..

Main project last week was focusing on getting tracks ready to put back on snow cat. I replaced the lacing that holds the track ends together when mounted on cat, and with help from my boss Stan, we were able to get the tracks mounted.

The old lacing was rusty and getting thin, with broken teeth on some.

Lining up new lacing

Special hardware for tracks installed, the excess length gets broken off

Heads held in place by tabs in lacing base

Tracks ready!

Tracks mounted, still needs some adjustment, but it's working again.

I didn't get pictures of mounting the tracks, it was an adventure, and required patience. We used a couple heavy ratchet straps on each track and slowly inched the ends together until we were able to gets pins(5/16th bolts) through the lacing.

I learned I need to know when to ask for help, and teamwork is important.

week 4: 40 hrs

total: 160

Cub diesel generator

Cub diesel generator, complaints of rough running, not generating power. Single cylinder, I pulled injector, and injection pump to be disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and reassembled. No problems found, I removed a .010" shim under injection pump, to adjust timing, which improved condition. I also put a load on the generator, to see if it would burn out carbon and clear up. I checked fuel in filter bowl, and it was ok. Went to re-prime fuel lines to injector, and now the fuel pump isn't pushing fuel. I'm going to check the diaphragm in the pump next week.

Injector 

Removing injection pump

I learned there are many things that need to work together for to run right even on an engine that seems so simple, and to take it one step at a time, not to get bogged down by trying to focus on too many things at once.

3rd week: 40hrs

Total: 120hrs

Snow Cat tracks

Last week a couple of my projects were a tune up on a thiokol snow cat, and I started repair on snow cat tracks. I had to re-align broken and bent wheel guides.

Broken tire guides that needed welding

Welding set up 

Welded guides

I learned how to bend the guides so they would line up correctly, and have the proper angles to stay lined up on tires when reinstalled on the snow cat

Week 2: 40

Total:80hrs

Valve lash adjustments

Last week we worked on valve lash adjustments on a few different engine brands, Cummins, Mercedes, and a Mack E7. We also adjusted the engine brake on engines that had one.

Cummins

Cummins Marine.

Checking some clearence.

Peace be with you.

Mercedes

Mack E7, finding #1 TDC was fun, the flywheel was a bit rusty and hard to see timing marks, though the book showed a way to find it it easy using holes in the face of the flywheel combined with degree marks on the edge of the flywheel. It all worked out. Manuals are useful, lol.

Setting the lash.

I learned not to just jump into the job, although adjusting valve lash seems straight forward, not all engines are created equal, tolerances set by the factory can change, and doing research will help out. 

The exhaust valve lash setting change from 0.024″ (0.610 mm) to 0.028″ (0.711 mm) for E7 engines was effective with the mid- 1996 introduction of the V-MAC® II fuel economy engines. Always verify the correct exhaust valve lash setting by noting the setting stamped in the lower right-hand corner of the engine identification plate.  

Week 8 hrs:30

Personal Project: 1964 F100. First look and disc brake conversion.

I very recently acquired a new project. This is a 1964 Ford F100. It was originally cardinal red, and has seen some changes over the last 53 years, obvious one being color. It originally has a 223 inline 6 engine, which was swapped for the 292 Y-block V-8 that currently resides in the engine compartment. It also has a Borg Warner T-98 4 speed transmission, and a ford 9" rear end with 3.89 gear ratio.

I have many plans for this old boy, including updated brakes, new wiring harness, and overdrive transmission, re-upholstery, some body work, and eventually new paint(probably back to it's original red color).

It runs and drives surprisingly well for running all original suspension and steering parts. I bought it and drove it 30 miles, mostly on the highway, home from Mt Vernon to Bellingham, Wa.

Enough introduction, here we go.

 53 year old dash.

292 ci Y-Block V-8

Drum roll please, lol. Here are the old drum brakes for the last time.

Drum and backing plate removed

Disc brake conversion installed, everything fits. I still need to remove and paint the brackets and calipers, then put in new brake lines.

More Soon!

Cat 3516

Last week's project was starting work on a Cat 3516 with a partner. We took down a cylinder, removing valve cover, rocker box(valve cover base), rockers, injector, head, piston, and cylinder sleeve. We then measured and compared our measurements to the specs and tolerances given by Caterpillar. Following are some pictures of the tear down and re-assembly of the cylinder we worked on.

Cylinder sleeve.

Here we can see the injector spray pattern on the piston top

Piston and connecting rod, with cap. Notice the splayed rod bolts.

Engine block bore with liner removed.

Bottom of cylinder head before cleaning

Cylinder liner installation instructions. We cleaned the block mating surfaces prior to installation, installed liner, pressed down till the protrusion tool with dial indicator met the tolerance indicated by Cat.

Spacer plate and steel gaskets in place, installing head alignment studs.

Using engine hoist to lower head onto block.

Torquing head bolts to spec and in sequence according to cat specs.

All torqued down

Injector, valve bridges,and lifters in place.

Setting rockers in place

Setting rocker gap tolerance with feeler gauges. .030 in this case on exhaust.  Followed by valve cover installation (not pictured).

This was an enjoyable project, and a good learning experience with a large engine. Though we didn't get pictures measuring all the bearings, journals, and bores, we made sure we checked all of our measurements against Cat's tolerances. We researched and printed out Cat's specs and tolerances for the Cat 3516 before we ever loosened a bolt on the engine.

After seeing block, liner, piston, and rod damage, caused shortly after a rebuild, in another cylinder due to a lose rod end bearing not caught during the rebuild, I learned how important small details and cleanliness are, no matter the size of the engine. We were careful about cleaning parts as we disassembled our power group, set them on clean paper on our table, covered them, and wiped them down again as we re-assembled. 

I also learned that parts with splayed blots, like our rod cap, need to be fit in place before installing bolts, or they won't go in. Dry fitting on the bench helped, though fitting the cap on the rod on the crankshaft was a bit trickier than while on the bench.

7th week: 30 hrs